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Arts Weeks: Writings

Arts weeks 2021

MISSING LONDON: A MICRO-ARCHIVE

We asked our contributors to think about the London that is missing and to write about a specific place or location. Many of us have been deeply missing the London we know and love, but 鈥� at the same time 鈥� large parts of London have been, themselves, missing 鈥� such as audiences, theatres, galleries. Moreover, London is built on, in and over parts of itself that are, in themselves, missing or buried. To walk our city鈥檚 streets is to be aware of buildings, palaces, places, livelihoods and events that have gone before. And some places, even in Bloomsbury, saw extraordinary events whose stories have gone missing.

We asked our contributors to donate an experience of our city suburbs or centre and we collected the places and memories that presented themselves as subjects. Our lead article, on the Africa Centre, is a little longer but we asked most of our authors for just a hundred words. During Arts Weeks 2021 and for a little while after we would love to add to our collection of ideas and fragments.

  • A is for

    • Africa Centre:听There is an invisible African presence in London鈥檚 Covent Garden. At 38 King Street, you will find a nearly nondescript building, currently being redeveloped into a retail space. But this place has a special significance to me and fellow Africans in Britain and in Africa as well as many British people with an interest in Africa and the Global South. Nowadays its quiet appearance belies its hidden history as a vibrant centre of African culture, politics and entertainment and there is little to suggest that until 2012, it housed the Africa Centre. The Africa Centre was opened in 1964 by Kenneth Kaunda, the first President of Zambia, and assumed a symbolic role in Post-colonial and Post-imperial Britain and Africa as a site of the continual celebration of all things African right in the centre of the former colonial metropole. The Africa Centre was a point of cultural exchange, offering the possibility of exploring new, and potentially more equal and deeper, kinds of African-British relations 鈥� it initiated exchanges that could go far beyond the colonial听 Manicheanism and Anthropological gaze explored by Frantz Fanon (The Wretched of the Earth (Penguin, 2020, orig. 1963)).
    • The Centre began as the brainchild of African students in London, and took shape when they were joined by a small group of British people with an interest in Africa, including Margaret Feeney and Antony Allott, a founding member of the SOAS听 Law Department. In a crucial development, the building was given to the African community and its Board of Trustees in perpetuity by the Roman Catholic Church in Britain. In 1962 Feeney became its first Director - and I was greatly honoured to serve on the Management Council, and briefly as its chair, from 1998 to 2003.
    • An early aim of the centre was to provide a home away from home for the many African students studying in the UK. But it also promoted everything African: music, dance, politics, education. Within its walls, academic debates could be fuelled by African food served from its basement restaurant, The Calabash.听 It also had a bookshop dedicated to African books. It was one of the few places in the UK听 where refugees, exiles, members of the various liberation movements, High Commissioners as well some visiting Generals and Cabinet Ministers mingled, albeit not always with the greatest ease (see ).
    • There was something uncanny about the choice of the building for an African Centre. The structure itself turned out to have some previous connections with Africa and the global south generally, having been an auction house for Benin arts in the eighteenth century and subsequently a tomato and banana warehouse. It had been a veritable conduit of colonial exploitation of cultural artefacts as well as part of the network of colonial global capitalism. In its new life, it was remade as a counter-hegemonic space of anti-colonialism, decolonisation and possibly Post-colonial 鈥榝uturing.鈥� It was a vibrant presence of Post-colonial and Post-imperial Africa in the very spaces where metropolitans had profited from colonialism.
    • Leading members of the ANC such as Desmond Tutu and Thabo Mbeki patronised the place. Tutu recalls that:鈥� I do remember that when you were feeling a little low and homesick and everything seemed so foreign - you'd have this place, [the Africa Centre], it was so heart-warming.鈥� (). Equally memorable and renowned writers visited. For example, Wole Soyinka, Buchi Emecheta, Ben Okri and Ngugi wa Thiong鈥檕 and Michere Mugo each at one time or another spoke at the Centre. Ngugi鈥檚 The Trial of Dedan Kimathi was performed there in the 1980s.听 Dambudzo Marechera鈥檚 ground-breaking novel, The House of Hunger, was celebrated there. Yet another milestone was Michael Walling鈥檚 production of Toufann by the Mauritian writer, Dev Virahsawmy, an appropriation of Shakespeare鈥檚 The Tempest for the particular cultural and linguistic hybridity of Mauritius. With the intensification of the liberation struggles in Zimbabwe, South African and Namibia in the 1970s, it became a forum for intense and passionate debate about the future of those countries and Africa generally. It also welcomed the birth of new countries, for instance, it joined in the 1991 independence celebrations of Eritrea.
    • As a space for discussion, it was naturally also a听 space for thinking through new democracies. It hosted the bourgeoning African pro-democracy groups that emerged in the early 1990s. In 1993, as the newly formed Malawi Association UK,听 we organised, perhaps, the first public meeting in the UK by groups opposed to the one-party state in Malawi. The main speaker, Bakili Muluzi, would later become the first president of multiparty Malawi. The recently retired president of Malawi, Arthur Peter Mutharika also visited the Centre after his talk at 糖心logo入口 in the late 1990s.
    • The Centre had a deep personal meaning for many: when听 we were campaigning against its closure, someone told me that, 鈥榳ithout it, I would not be here 鈥� my parents met there.鈥� It could be that all buildings鈥櫶� brick and mortar endure across time, but their meanings change with different occupants and functions.听听 Even so, it can be contended that their meanings, their semiotic and affective significance, still persist in the numerous personal worlds of the former inhabitants as multiple memories of contingent and lived experience. These afterlives continue not so much in the lean terrain of solipsistic Cartesian pure thought, but more in the Kantian mode of existing both inside and outside consciousness simultaneously.听 So, it is with the Africa Centre in Covent Garden: it is no longer there, but it still abides in our memories and our affective histories. It is alive in the friendships we formed there and in the joys and sorrows we shared, as well as in the solidarity of the resistance to the decision to sell the building.听 It is remade in the public lives of many who have passed through it and who continue to contribute to advocating Africa, its arts, cultural practices, and its intellectual contribution to the world.
    • Though invisible and silent to the passers-by and future shoppers, the听 Africa Centre is still there at 38 King Street. Perhaps, from a different order of things, in another way of seeing, the building itself remembers. . Mpalive-Hangson Msiska.
    • Artemisia 鈥� Attention听I minded missing Artemisia Gentileschi at the National Gallery. Tickets for November 2020: cancelled; rebooked tickets for January 2021: cancelled. I missed the woman that much of art history has until recently persisted in missing. What effort must go into this kind of missing that refused to see such staggeringly vivid effects of paint on canvas? And what attention Artemisia brings to make her Judith and Holofernes: attention to what it means for muscle, skin, cloth, breath, and gut when a woman severs the head of a man. Carolyn Burdett.
  • B is for

    Bus:听I miss the No. 14 bus route from Russell Square to the Victoria & Albert Museum, a journey that, P.C. (pre covid), I used to make often. Sitting on the upper deck, in the window seat at the front, I would open a book but never read. Instead, I would gaze, an indulgent fl芒neuse, at the 鈥榃est End鈥�: Shaftesbury Avenue; Piccadilly; the Royal Academy; Knightsbridge and, at last, the V&A, always getting off a stop early to walk past the Brompton Oratory. As someone whose childhood was spent in suburban London, this journey always thrills me. I miss it. Lynda Nead.

  • C is for

    • Christmastime:听I love London at Christmastime. One of our family鈥檚 London Christmas traditions that were scuppered by the pandemic was our annual visit to Denis Severs鈥� House in Spitalfields. In a city full of interesting museums and galleries, Severs鈥� House is truly unique. After acquiring a Georgian terraced house on Folgate Street in 1979, the artist Severs recreated a series of period rooms, each telling the story of a family of Huguenot weavers who might have lived there between 1725 and 1919. With hearth and candles burning, and objects scattered haphazardly, it鈥檚 as if the inhabitants only left the rooms a second ago. Every Christmas season, the rooms are decorated with the sights and smells of Christmases past, making it a particularly special time to visit. Andrew Regan.
  • D is for

    • Dalston: Elephants once roamed Dalston. The North London Colosseum, with a capacity of 4000, opened in Dalston in 1886, starring Professor Collier鈥檚 Elephants. But tastes change: in 1898 it was converted into a variety theatre and in 1920 to a cinema. In the 1960s it became one of the first venues for black music in the UK, with Bob Marley, Stevie Wonder and Jimmy Cliff appearing. It transformed again in the 1990鈥檚, becoming Club Labyrinth, home of rave. The building was demolished in 2007, despite much dissent, to make way for Dalston Junction station which regularly disgorges revellers into the night. Sue Jones
    • Docks:听This word names a maze of canals, one-way systems, deep dark waters. First, there was the East India company鈥檚 early dock at Blackwall (they needed a wall to keep their produce safe). Produce came in - desirables, some bloodstained, from India, Sumatra, China and then the colonies. Then the war, container ships that were too big, decay, and a famous notice 鈥榊ou鈥檙e welcome to Millwall鈥�. Dockers, too, are amongst London鈥檚 missing. Whole suburbs grew up in service of the docks. Electric light illuminated the docks early 鈥� to stop the pilfering. For some boys, education meant learning to swim. Thanks to Ollie Chinyere.
    • Open door: Lock Down for me erased one of the glories of London ... serendipitous discoveries. As a London based guide and author my life is spent walking the streets, dipping in and out of alleyways and courtyards, and visiting small independent galleries. Each day brought new听experiences听but best of all were the things you found when least expecting them when entering an open door. With London鈥檚 doors shut and nobody on the streets the random meetings with artists and the public were gone and visits to听the city were poorer without them.
  • E is for

    • Execution dock:听Execution Dock, the centuries-old site of pirate execution, stood at the low tide point on Wapping foreshore. Following a final ale at the nearby Turks Head, condemned pirates would be hanged at Execution Dock and their bodies left on the gallows until three tides had washed over them. Audiences thronged to witness these events. Pirates continue to exert a fascination today. One Wapping pub has erected a gallows and customers drink their pints in its shadow. But Execution Dock itself is lost in the Thames mud and only the nearby Thames River Police HQ is left to administer watery discipline. Sue Jones.
    • Excuses:听I miss excuses to borrow my favourite children and go to the panto at Hackney Empire. We would sit in cheap seats in a high balcony, in the front row. And when the cast threw sweets into the crowd I would say, 鈥榥ow is the time they want us to throw our sweetie papers, one, two, three鈥�, and down would drift the papers onto the stalls. Ha, serve them right. But this year all the parents are home-schoolteachers, and the other grown-ups have masks on and scuffle tactfully to the other side of the pavement. Here鈥檚 to knowing the small people again, as humans. Rachel Klosky.
  • F is for

    • Film:听The first time I went, my friend, Chloe tried to convince me to adopt an axolotl. (I considered it until discovering they eat live fish). She then presented a film she had not seen and was herself introduced by a video of Stanley, the curator, singing her name from the sandstone mountains of Wadi Rum. None of those present knew what the film would be. Liberated Film Club featured, once a month, an incognito film. I miss it and its ardent attendees. That night we saw Passion, by Gy枚rgy Feh茅r, based on the crime novel The Postman Always Rings Twice. Mara Polgovsky Ezcurra.
  • G is for

    • Gorilla:听In 2016, a silverback gorilla named Kambuka went missing at London Zoo by exiting through an unlocked 鈥榚ntrance鈥�. In this ironic twist of events, the patrons and staff at the zoo locked themselves into buildings around the site to counter the danger presented by this unleashed 鈥榳ildness鈥�. These spectators watched through phone screens and the windows of their temporary enclosures as the gorilla strolled freely around the grounds of the zoo. There is a delicate balance central to zoological spectatorship where the rules and expectations of such tangled space are quickly surpassed when the boundaries established by captivity are transgressed. Lee Christian.
    • Green Park:听Green Park is a central London park missing lakes, buildings or playgrounds. Can it be a park with all those gone? It may not have buildings of its own, but it is hedged by shopping paradises and palaces (see T is for Townhouse) as well as, apparently, RAF Bomber Command Memorial (which sounds like something your grandad would require you see on a trip to London). Also, was it really a burial ground for sufferers from leprosy? Thanks to Ollie Chinyere.
  • H is for have we got horses 鈥� or even horse-scents?

    • Horses:听It鈥檚 very rare that you see or smell a horse in London these days; police horses, ceremonial uses, the occasional brewers鈥� dray kept for show. It鈥檚 a bit of a thrill to hear the clop of hooves. But horses occupied the London streets alongside humans for most of the city鈥檚 history. For many centuries, the horse was the only means of powered transport, apart from the river, for goods and people within and beyond the metropolis. Horse-related activities proliferated: the Saddlers are one of the earliest documented city companies, while the horse market at Smithfield is mentioned in the 1170s. Carts and packhorses thronged London鈥檚 streets from the middle ages, and coaches and private vehicles from the 16th听century. Even a century ago, in 1919, though the motor was already dominant in passenger transport in London, three-quarters of trade vehicles were still horse-drawn. Visitors commented on how London smelt of horses, and the 3-4 tons of dung each one produced in a year made no small contribution to the capital鈥檚 problems of cleanliness and congestion. Vanessa Harding.
  • I is for

    • Ice: In his twelfth-century account of the city of London, William Fitzstephen, hagiographer of Thomas Becket, described skating on the frozen marsh at Moorfields on skates fashioned from cattle bone. Just such a pair is held by the Museum of London, a type of skate in use since prehistory. A fragment of Old English riddle may allude to this collocation of ice and bone: wundor wear冒 on wege; w忙ter wear冒 to bane (a wonder happened on the way; water turned to bone). Ice, brittle and pale as bone, without doubt, but perhaps also the inter-objective pas de deux of ice and bone, dancing together? Mike Bintley.
  • J is hiding, with K.

    • London Bridge:听Old London Bridge looms spectacular in the imagination. Containing on its span houses and businesses, water mills, fortified gates, heads on spikes, it was pre-modern London in microcosm.听 It hindered the flow of the mighty Thames, causing rapids between the bridge鈥檚 piers. To steer a boat through was 鈥榮hooting the bridge鈥�, a hazardous and often fatal endeavour. In 1831 the bridge was replaced by a more orderly structure, traces of the original effaced. The stones of Old London Bridge now languish, hidden, lining the West Reservoir in Hackney. I swim over them and 鈥� sometimes 鈥� glimpse ghosts of heads on spikes. Sue Jones.
  • L is for

    • London Bridge:听Old London Bridge looms spectacular in the imagination. Containing on its span houses and businesses, water mills, fortified gates, heads on spikes, it was pre-modern London in microcosm.听 It hindered the flow of the mighty Thames, causing rapids between the bridge鈥檚 piers. To steer a boat through was 鈥榮hooting the bridge鈥�, a hazardous and often fatal endeavour. In 1831 the bridge was replaced by a more orderly structure, traces of the original effaced. The stones of Old London Bridge now languish, hidden, lining the West Reservoir in Hackney. I swim over them and 鈥� sometimes 鈥� glimpse ghosts of heads on spikes. Sue Jones.
  • M is for

    • Missing (obviously):听In 1827, when John Simpson鈥檚 painting was first exhibited at the British Institution on Pall Mall, it was called Head of a Black. Owned by the National Gallery since 1847, it remained mostly in storage. Transferred to Tate in 1919, it has only been on permanent display since 2013. Within Tate鈥檚 collection of British art, the painting is significant as one of very few historical portraits of Black sitters. Yet it is revealing 鈥� and troubling 鈥� that even today researchers have not been able to establish with certainty this man鈥檚 identity. The title hints at an unconfirmed link with the famous Shakespearean actor Ira Aldridge. Our knowledge of the Black presence in nineteenth-century London remains seriously under-researched, and difficult to access because most archives did not record a person鈥檚 ethnicity, or the colour of their skin. Scholars now try hard to recuperate the identities of sitters such as the one in Simpson鈥檚 painting. This is difficult and painstaking work, but it is urgent business: we need to know more about these 鈥榤issing鈥� people that inhabit many of the galleries and historic collections in London. Their contributions to the city鈥檚 history must be more widely known and understood. Sarah Thomas.
  • N is for

    Neighbourhood:听Was St Buttolphe鈥檚 Without Aldgate London鈥檚 first multi-cultural community? When Shakespeare wrote Othello he didn鈥檛 have to use his imagination to conjure up 鈥榯he Moor of Venice鈥�. Michael Wood鈥檚 research in the Guildhall archives has revealed that a small parish outside the city gates at Aldgate was home to around twenty-five 鈥榤oors鈥� at the end of the sixteenth century, including Isabell Peeters 鈥榓 Black-more lodgeing in Blew Anchor Alley鈥�, Symon Valencia, 鈥榓 black moore servaunt to Stephen Drifyeld a nedellmaker鈥�, and Christopher Cappavert 鈥榓 black moore鈥� who probably hailed from the Cape Verde Islands. The district was also inhabited by French and Dutch immigrants, a Persian, and several people from the Indian sub-continent. Life was hard for these denizens, however, and John Stow鈥檚 Survey of London (1598) describes the parish as full of 鈥榝ilthy Cotages, and ... other preposterous like inclosures ... which is no small blemish to so famous a citie.鈥� Stephen Clucas.

  • O is for

    • Obscene Publications Act:听If you walk down Kingsway to the Aldwych and stand midway between St Clement Danes and St Mary-le-Strand, you are standing on a slice of missing London. This was the site of Holywell Street, a narrow Elizabethan lane, which The Times called 鈥榯he most vile street in the civilised world鈥�. Holywell Street sold indecent books and prints and in 1857 became the focus of a moral panic about obscenity that led to the passing of the first Obscene Publications Act. It was dirty and seditious and stood in the way of London鈥檚 modernisation. RIP Holywell Street. Lynda Nead.
    • Our designer:听Now mysteriously missing, our designer, O, is gone! OC has now exited the Missing London vault, slammed the big door; crossed the Threshold; passed the Plane trees and is undoubtedly Missing to be met only serendipitously or in Series Three The Return a Castle Own production coming soon in the smoking ruin of british higher education- maybe as our defence lawyer? Gordon Cole.
  • P is for

    • Plane trees:听I鈥檓 not missing London. I鈥檓 not missing my commute, expensive take-out cups of tea on Kings Cross station because my train鈥檚 delayed. I鈥檓 not missing my ancient work PC. I鈥檓 not even missing the books I鈥檝e left in my office. I鈥檓 not missing the clouds of choking seed heads that come off the plane trees and drift on the steps of our building, making eyes itch and throats close. But actually, I am missing those plane trees. Their sheer audacity: to be so huge, their crunchy, then slippery, leaves on pavements, roots undermining buildings, insisting they belong in the city. Rosie Cox
  • Q is for

    • Quadrangle:听Having never once attended Somerset House鈥檚 annual ice-skating rink in the Before Times, it was a bit weird to find myself missing it in 2020. In my mind: arctic light, the scraping of skates, the warmth of people in the cold air. Maybe it was just the people I was missing. To me, means picking my way across it to meet my family members in its caf茅, a hazy recollection of my nephew running through its summer fountains, . Much more recently, : bodies congregating in a courtyard choreography, others gathering to delightedly watch. Louise Owen.
  • R is for

    • Route:听Tottenham Court Road, gritty and polluted, I don鈥檛 miss but turning into Store Street and seeing ahead, looming, almost surreal, the monolith of Senate House. I miss my walk past the Building Centre with its architectural models and the enticing diversion into the fug of Store Street Espresso.听听Then on I walk, drinking my coffee, across Gower Street and Malet Street, towards Senate House, stepping down and through its travertine entrance space and up and out the other side, heading toward the plane trees of Russell Square, vivid green against the massy terracotta of the (sometime) Russell Hotel behind. Catharine Edwards.
  • S is for

    • Songs:听Early English poetry drips with twisted gold but makes little mention of money. Battlefields are plentiful, but markets are missing, being perhaps too mundane a subject in comparison with the sunlit groves of The Phoenix, the fen-lairs of Beowulf, or the shining city of Judith. Yet London鈥檚 earliest incarnation in the Middle Ages was exactly this: a mercantile and artisanal settlement stretching from Trafalgar Square to Aldwych (the old wic, or market), and following the slope of Covent Garden down to the strand 鈥� Old English for 鈥榮hore鈥�. Lundenwic is alive in place names, but its songs have not survived. Mike Bintley.
  • T is for

    • Thresholds:听Walking from Euston station to Gordon Square, the morning sun shining in my eyes, the plane trees waving me hello. Arriving at the entrance to number 43, imagining the past steps of people who have worked in that building over the last 200 years. Remembering the times I鈥檝e stood with co-workers in all weathers trying to encourage others not to cross the picket line. This site of solidarity is an emotional threshold where I get to know more about the people I work with and my workplace than I often get the chance to once I鈥檓 back inside, feet under my desk. Sophie Hope.
    • Town houses ... Kate Retford takes a tour:
    • Devonshire House, Piccadilly: Chatsworth House, that great baroque pile in the Derbyshire Dales, has been hailed as one of the UK鈥檚 greatest national treasures. Yet visitors in the eighteenth century found it decidedly disappointing. One Thomas Martyn commented in 1767: 鈥楥hatsworth has very little in it that can attract the eye of the Connoisseur鈥�. That was because, during this period, all the good stuff was in the Cavendish family鈥檚 London town house, which stood more or less opposite the current premises of the Ritz on Piccadilly. However, those prized possessions were sent up to Derbyshire ahead of the sale of Devonshire House in 1920., and all that鈥檚 left are the gates from the forecourt, topped by sphinxes, which now stand on the opposite side of the street, opening into Green Park. Look on these and think of Siegfried Sassoon鈥檚 wry poetical tribute: 鈥榥ot one nook survived to screen a mouse/ In what was Devonshire (God rest it) House鈥�.
    • Norfolk House, No. 31 St James鈥檚 Square: Parties seem a thing of the dim and distant past. They had a particularly good one at Norfolk House in St James鈥檚 Square early in 1756, to mark the completion of this lavish new building. One guest, Captain William Farington, sat down on 18th February to describe the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk鈥檚 soir茅e for the benefit of his sisters. His breathy account of 鈥榯he finest assembly ever known in this Kingdom鈥� describes each room in turn, innovatively 鈥榝urnished with a different colour鈥�. The Music Room, which survives intact at the , was white: 鈥榳ainscotted in a whimsical taste, the panels filled with extreme fine carvings, the arts and sciences, all gilt, as well as the ceiling 鈥� here the Dutchess sat, the whole night that she might speak to everyone as they came in.鈥� Demolished in 1938, you鈥檒l find a rather underwhelming office block in place of this party house today.
    • No. 100 Pall Mall: My last lost town house stood roughly on the current site of the Reform Club on Pall Mall. Designed by Charles Barry (1837-41), based on the Palazzo Farnese in Rome, the Club is a good sight more impressive than the standard, three-storey terrace house which John Julius Angerstein inhabited in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. Here, he built up the art collection that became the nucleus of the National Gallery. After Angerstein鈥檚 death in 1823, Lord Liverpool鈥檚 government bought 38 pictures from his collection as well as the lease on the building, where the work continued to be displayed until its move to Trafalgar Square the following decade. A shortly after the purchase shows students diligently copying paintings, including the most valuable from Angerstein鈥檚 collection: Sebastiano del Piombo鈥檚 Raising of Lazarus (1517-19). Catalogued as 鈥楴G1鈥�, it .
  • U is for

    • Underground (see also wrestling): The Underground is our quotidian catabasis, or descent to hell. Those who work there know most of its mysterious passages and dual tracks. They know too much of us, also, and have codes for what we leave behind. Sometimes, above ground, abandoned stations appear like places where the world used to be thin but has scarred. These tiley buildings are all called Mornington Crescent. The underground. Will we go down and if we do will we come up?
  • V is for

    • Vindication of the Rights of Women:听The tomb of Mary Wollstonecraft, William Godwin and Mary Jane Godwin, St Pancras Old Church Gardens is a monument to missing. Mary Wollstonecraft died in 1797 after giving birth to her daughter, the writer Mary Shelley, who learned her alphabet by tracing the letters on her lost mother鈥檚 tombstone. These commemorate the 鈥楢uthor of A Vindication of the Rights of Woman鈥�, Wollstonecraft鈥檚 feminist manifesto on behalf of the women missing from the Rights of Man debates. Wollstonecraft herself has been missing from her grave since 1851 when, after Mary Shelley鈥檚 death, her parents鈥� remains were moved to the Shelley family tomb in Bournemouth. Away from London during COVID, I miss my proximity to this dedicated place of missing. Hilary Fraser.
  • W is for

    • Wrestling:听An estimated 500,000 mice live in London's underground. Once I saw one wrestle an abandoned burger onto the tracks at Euston Square. Another time, beneath Tottenham Court Road, one charged with a plastic fork in its mouth, like a pole-vaulter in training. These days, when I鈥檓 stuck inside, or rifling through more takeaway, I find myself wondering what they are up to with so few of us around - how they are coping without our snacks, our threatening patter; do they miss us and wish we鈥檇 come home? Maybe hunger is a fair price for extra freedom, a little longing the cost of keeping safe. Fintan Walsh,
  • X is for

    • Xtreme violence: The current Eagle Tavern on Shepherdess Walk, Hoxton, is a mere fraction of its former size and glory. Once it was Hoxton鈥檚 favourite pub, and with its Grecian Theatre could hold 10,000. In 1882 the Salvation Army acquired it for their meetings and a temperance bar: and thousands of residents of this working-class area turned out to object. A series of riots saw Salvationists brutally battered and savagely used, and forced off the streets. The theatre and pub were demolished in the 1890s, and the violence of 1882/3 is now all but forgotten. Remember it as you pass by. Ed Lyon.
  • Z is for

    • Zoo:听Barthes on alphabetic order: an idea per fragment, a fragment per idea, and as for the succession of these atoms鈥� If alphabetical letters are the smallest unit signalling matter then fragments correspond to zoological display.
    • Marx: The name of a thing is entirely external to its nature. I know nothing鈥f I merely know his name is Jacob. In an unobserved enclosure, dazzling pelt and jutting jaw intersect behind boundary-architecture. Carnassial teeth shear in diagonals, slicing like a butcher鈥檚 knife, our diurnal sequence. Under Zoonotic time, the living monuments of the zoo recede further backwards as we slump forwards. Lee Christian.

Arts weeks 2020

A week in the life of

  • Scott Rodgers (Week 5)

    • Rules:听This week was to include听my first visit to听policy institute听. My听imagined scenario: a perfectly听sunny day;听Victoria Line to Green Park,听arriving early and听perambulating听through the听actual听Green Park; then听ambling听towards听, envisioning myself听to be听a听seasoned听specialist of international affairs.听But you听know where this is going:听the听visit was cancelled.听And you know听how it was replaced:听inadequately听by a Zoom call.听Online, the听听still applied.听Though this听doesn鈥檛 prevent me from detailing听the reason for听鈥榲isiting鈥�,听reaching 100 words听for this diary听entry听does.
    • Newsround:听Watching CBBC鈥檚听听has become a daily ritual.听I鈥檝e been struck听by听how,听through听such听(digital) television programmes,听younger people connect fleetingly听with听a听public world.听听once observed听that听televisual听public听connection听creates ambiguous relationships between听awareness听and听responsibility.听This week听Newsround听reports about the听murder听of George听Floyd, and the protests in the US and elsewhere. My older son has听more questions than I听can听answer.听For him, it鈥檚 a听largely-unknown world of听systemic racism听and unequal treatment by police听of听which听鈥撎齀 try to explain听鈥撎齭ome听of his teachers and classmates听will听have听first-hand听experience.听
    • Newts:听I鈥檓 learning lots听about newts,听at least the听plenitude听thriving in one marshy pond near my home听in Walthamstow, East London. Crested and smooth,听with and without frill, male and female, large and small, spots and orange bellies.听This听learning听isn鈥檛听particularly hands-on. I鈥檓 reclined barefoot on the grass, watching two children, my children, on the newt hunt. They draw much attention from听passersby. Not听just in听producing听abundant听specimens听for their publics听- it鈥檚 also that听their whole getup is听pleasantly听absurd. Both in child-sized waders (yes,听these are available), nets aloft, one inexplicably wearing his cycling helmet.听
    • Plots:听A听book chapter听I鈥檓 writing on social media images and the city is听egregiously late. It comes out of a听mixed-method,听听on how such platforms help mediate experiences of urban change. I鈥檓 not late just because of听the听lockdown, but also because of听my听slowness听in听learning听ImagePlot, an听open-access听ImageJ-based tool听through which one can create听large-scale image听visualizations.听Learning this has听definitely been听helpful analytically, but I鈥檓 also just struck by aesthetic beauty of these听visualisations,听plotted听onto an听X-Y axis,听along cartesian or polar coordinates. Akin to听,听鈥痮r听.听
    • Loops:听I鈥檝e long dabbled in sample-based music production. It鈥檚 not something I talk much about around听College. And somehow, someway, I鈥檝e squeezed in just a little more time for this during lockdown. For years, I鈥檝e听been听mildly obsessed with chopping and playing samples using newly-low-cost tools modelled on the听classic听, famously听听and others. But in recent weeks, I鈥檝e听settled in rather comfortably with the听vitality听of听the听simple loop.听As Joseph Schloss observed in his ethnography听Making Beats,听looped samples听recast music anew, establishing听repeated juxtapositions听of beginning听and听end. Wonderfully听hypnotic,听inexorable听compositions.听
  • Akane Kawakami (Week 4)

    • Sunday.听Today鈥檚 lesson:听never听use canned chickpeas to make falafels.听Despite following听听religiously听鈥撎齟xcept for听the听canned chickpeas听鈥撎齩ur efforts came to nothing:听literally, as听we听watched听our little听falafel patties听dissolve听into听a听small, foamy听mess听in the听hot听oil.听Cooked chickpeas clearly lack resilience.听We grilled the remaining ones,听which were听nice enough but tasted too healthy鈥μ齩h for听鈥樷�� down the road!听听
    • Monday.听Back to work for all of us: online learning for my son, online lecturing and admin for my husband, and for me,听endless emailing and admin,听crisis management,听attempting to maintain a听semblance听of normality鈥μ齣t鈥檚 a challenging听time to be听head听of a department!
    • Tuesday.听Cooking听provides听an essential respite from the screen time that is now so all-encompassing.听Rachel听Roddy's听听remind me of the city where I spent my teens,听learned to听make real听tiramis霉听(it does听not听involve听cream),听dress听with style听and听swear in Roman听dialect.听(I鈥檝e given all that up now, except for the听tiramis霉.)听Her听鈥樷�櫶齪asta sauce听induces听both听nostalgia and heartburn.听
    • Wednesday.听Worked听on听my article听about French writer and photographer听,听alas now听hopelessly overdue.听Guibert鈥檚听photographic听self-portraits听are听often听鈥榠ndirect鈥� representations, showing him听veiled in shadow听or听reflected in听mirrors and听windows.听Images of a man who knew he was听dying听(of AIDS; he听died听in 1991).听But听they鈥檙e听always elegant,听with a wink听for听his audience;听autofictional, exactly like his writing.听
    • Thursday.听Today,听a PhD chapter on depictions of South Asia in Japanese anime.听A听footnote to听Endo听Shusaku鈥檚听听gives me the slimmest of excuses听to听turn to听the听novel.听It鈥檚 a late work听from this听Japanese Catholic novelist,听which听ends听abruptly yet听nonchalantly,听abandoning听its听protagonists in听their听hotel听in Varanasi.听The听novel鈥檚听Japanese stereotypes of India are fascinating, and some听are听uncomfortably familiar.听Will I ever visit India, now?听
    • Friday.听We听will听put up the听ping听pong听table听today. It听arrived about a听week ago in a completely un-constructed听state; as听my son听says, the instructions听start,听more or less, by听telling听you which forest to go to for the wood.听I am sure it didn鈥檛 say 鈥榮elf-assembly鈥� on the website.听We start after听the听working day:听three hours later, we have听only听got听to page three,听we are cold,听we听need听a听spanner听of a size we don鈥檛 have,听and I never want to see a screwdriver again.听听
    • Saturday.听Another four hours听of high-octane听DIY, and听the table is ready!听It鈥檚 a听glorious听day: gentle sunshine, no wind, perfect听ping pong听weather.听I call my mother in Tokyo. The听death rate听in Japan听is听ridiculously low compared to ours here. Or perhaps ours听is听ridiculously听high? She听cannot听believe听the news听I听give听her about Johnson鈥檚 government, and I annoy her by saying听the Japanese PM听is much听to be preferred. Sounds of听ping pong听waft in from the garden.听听
  • Keith Jarrett (Week 3)

    • For the purposes of this narrative, 鈥榳eek鈥� signifies an arbitrary construct, divisible into seven-ish distinct time units, with increasing elasticity (distinguishing between days as an academic and freelancer with an unpredictable routine was tricky enough pre-pandemic!) This particular 鈥榳eek鈥� has been punctuated by redundant calendar notifications 鈥� see Caribbean trip below 鈥� and a couple of arrivals, reorienting me somewhat.
    • In her latest travel podcast series, Colombian historian Diana Uribe states (loosely translated): 鈥榃hile movement may be physically restricted, we still have our imaginations to explore the world.鈥� This sentiment is comforting, even though I was supposed to have left for Jamaica this week, then Cuba, for a writing research project. I鈥檝e explored Mali, Ireland and Japan through the ears, enjoying Uribe鈥檚 international perspective. I鈥檝e also redeemed my Imagination Airways ticket via Google Maps, traversing random avenues in cities I may or may not visit someday.
    • Writing prompt using Street View as stimulus: Drop the little yellow man onto the grid and watch the neighbourhood come into focus. All the poorly-pixelated people crossing roads. The couple holding hands 鈥� are they still together? Who lives behind that door? *
      When wishing to get inside the buildings, virtual museum tours are plentiful. I鈥檝e enjoyed revisiting Barcelona鈥檚 鈥� and its impressive 360藲 experience 鈥� this time without having to navigate other tourists taking pictures on their phone. is another lighter-hearted way to interrogate sculpture and paintings.
    • The final Polari First Book Prize entries thudded onto my doorstep last weekend 鈥� I鈥檓 one of this year鈥檚 judges 鈥� and I鈥檝e relished the prospect of escapism, plus I鈥檇 already read/hoped to read many of the forty submissions. Now the deadline looms, simultaneously shifting from poetry to fiction via graphic memoir has proved intense, so I鈥檝e emptied my calendar to make room. I鈥檓 particularly mindful of how these first-time authors are facing an increasingly-uncertain climate, and so I鈥檝e read each sentence with their hopes in mind, taking copious notes. I think of my own debut novel, and how I must also cast it out into a future beyond my control 鈥� if it ever sees the light of day. My feelings are not one of despair but of determination.
    • Despite feeling I鈥檝e missed out on so much, I鈥檝e caught the aftermath of some cultural moments: live DJ battles; film screenings; Zoom poetry festivals; but most has been lost to the world of social media ephemera. Art abounds and we cannot contain it.听
    • This week鈥檚 other arrival was , twenty-four new essays on sexuality and religion (I鈥檓 one of the essayists, as is Phyll Opoku-Gyimah, Jeanette Winterson and more鈥�) I鈥檝e just seen a moving live online chat with Ruth Hunt and Dustin Lance Black, also a contributor.
    • Other social media conversation highlights include and discussing poems last night on Instagram Live. I also, finally, caught up on the Erykah Badu vs. Jill Scott back catalogue battle, (even Michelle Obama was watching it at the time!) It鈥檚 a Neo-soul nostalgia fest.
    • On to film, and it鈥檚 difficult to explain It鈥檚 infuriating in some places, boundary-pushing in others, but the payoff is worth it.
    • Tying some of these threads (music, virtual travel, Colombia, Spanish-language content鈥�), soundtracked my morning. Palenques and maroon towns are another topic for another day, warranting much more detail than I can afford here.听听
    • Finally, I鈥檝e made good on my Jamaican trip by following , a Caribbean feminist book club. To feel part of a community across time zones feels precious, urgent right now. Though my movements are necessarily restricted, I have an unlimited worldscape.听
  • Marina Warner (Week 2)

    • Sei听Shonagon听was a Japanese听writer听in the听tenth to eleventh听centuries听who served in the entourage of the empress in Kyoto.听Her听听is a diary,听a听commonplace book 鈥� a blog if you like听- filled听with her likes and dislikes, gossip, pleasures (her favourite outfits, quips, meals)听-听and her disappointments. She was encouraged to write after she was given a sheaf of very precious paper to use 鈥� the aesthetic faculty was extraordinarily prized in Heian Japan.听She听may have听kept it by her bed to jot down her thoughts before she went to sleep or when she woke during the night. Hence the name,听Pillow Book.听She liked making lists 鈥� some of them very sharp and worldly.听Life at court was听luxurious but听circumscribed and regulated,听like a large household in quarantine, and they amused themselves with anecdotes and exchanges of knowledge.听Here, in听a听salute听to Sei听Shonagon, is听a list听of things that came to mind this week.
    • A family听pet: I am talking more to friends听and they鈥檙e听telling听me things I never heard听before:听during a Zoom coffee morning one Sunday, a neighbour reveals that听he keeps a pet python in his basement.听It听was acquired as a听pet and听called Monty because the family听thought it听was male. It鈥檚 now known as听Montikins.听She spends the day sleeping but wakes at night and sometimes eats a rat, which my friend provides from his freezer.听Montikins听is two metres long and has been living听there over thirty years, has a听鈥榲ery听pretty face鈥�,听my听neighbour says, adding听he is very fond of her.
    • Dreams of听escape: Dreams have become much more colourful, say several friends.听It鈥檚 true in my case too. I am keeping much more regular hours,听though I have bouts of insomnia. Maybe isolation helps incubate dreams.听Though in my conscious day-to-day life I听don鈥檛听think about travelling听again,听at night I roam the world, sometimes piloting my own plane, which is made of matchboxes and very small but as difficult听to听manoeuvre as if it were a听Boeing 747.听Another night I took a taxi to听the Heathrow听Express听but the driver refused to put my suitcase in the boot and insisted it follow us on a Deliveroo moped. At a traffic light, I rebelled and opened his boot myself, and found a corpse in it with signs of plague from the olden times.听
    • What do you miss most? asks another friend.听I didn鈥檛 answer her and realised that I have shut my mind to thinking about life before lockdown so as not to become desperate. Now and then the pain cuts into me, of not seeing my family for such a long time.
    • Historical precursors听#1:听Joseph down the well et al. Isolation is a terrible punishment, we all know.听Circumstances when people听have been听hidden away听include,听at the extreme end,听the听horror听of being dropped down a well,听like Joseph by his brothers,听and left to die. In听,听the wicked wizard, Aladdin鈥檚 uncle, lowers the boy into a deep cave to fetch the magic lamp and, then abandons him听鈥撎齜ut Aladdin听manages to free himself, and freeing yourself by ingenuity and patience is a heroic possibility in such stories. But not in real life.听Isolation is enclosure and enclosure often听implies听darkness.听The tales of the Nights are tunnelled with underground passages and chambers, and at the end of them, someone听has been holed up: the听incestuous brother and sister, or the听prince of the black islands, who has been turned half to stone by the enchantress he married.听In lockdown,听I watched the听,听the production听by Simon Godwin in which听Tamsin Grieg played听Malvolio as听Malvolia听-听with deadpan severity. The comedy was wicked and light-footed until the scene when Sir Toby et al trick听Malvolia听and听she鈥檚 thrown into prison听for being mad听and听her piteous cries from inside this dark hole听rise up听from under the stage.听So many isolated care home patients, now, as well as prisoners of all ages,听are听kept in all day because of staff shortages and the dangers of听contagion,听and听have no such hopes or chances听of escape.
    • Historical Precursors听#2:听Hermits and anchorites: At the other extreme,听holy听hermits听choose to self-isolate:听in听Syria in the 5th听century,听Simeon听Stylites听climbed to the top of a听pillar, with听no room to lie down,听and stayed there for听37听years.听He听set a new craze in听enforcing social distance, and cutting all ties to beds or baths, but he couldn鈥檛 get away from people who flocked to consult him.听At one time, there were several more hermits standing on pillars in the surrounding area.
    • Some centuries later, medieval听anchorites 鈥� mostly women 鈥� would wall themselves up near a church, in a cell听so narrow they too could not lie down to sleep and depended on the charity of others for survival.听Like the听stylites听or column-dwellers, these听self-isolators听also attracted crowds. Some visitors began by scoffing听and听taunting but听were miraculously persuaded and converted to repentance.听听is the most celebrated听anchorite, partly because T.听S.听Eliot in his听听was inspired by her听听and quoted听her听lines, 鈥榓ll shall be well, and all shall be well,听and all manner of thing shall be well鈥�.听She isn鈥檛 a fully recognised 鈥� canonised听鈥撎齭aint, but her expression of steadfast hope and consolation听under duress听characterises听one听role听for saints across time, to show听defiance and听hold out听promise.
    • Saviours: Several听other听saints听are directly linked to plagues, because听praying to them听delivered a city, a country, a people from the ravages of an epidemic.听At the time of my writing this听text,听there is some debate concerning the re-opening of churches.听Pastors put the emphasis听on the need for quiet prayer,听not the efficacy of divine beings to end the horrors.听But in Palermo,听another hermit,听听鈥� who is the palladium of the city听and听a symbol for the citizens as well as听the Catholic faithful听鈥撎�.听听was there听when that struck, and in lockdown painted glorious images of听Rosalia听at her healing work.听It made me smile when I heard the听Palermitani听are听still putting听such听faith in their patron saint.听But the way belief works for believers听shouldn鈥檛 be听just smiled at or condescended to.听
    • There are scores,听no听perhaps hundreds, of local听Madonnas听all over Europe and the Americas who are tied to the memory of a particular听scourge, as healers and saviours. The shrines and statues听set up in cathedrals, churches and street tabernacles听keep the record of what happened though the memories fade with the bunches of flowers, the burned down candles and the photographs of the ones who survived听- or the ones who didn鈥檛. At the same time, psychologically,听these cults are expressions of belief that the powers above听are kind听but need to be told what鈥檚 needed. They鈥檙e not听Greek听gods听sending听arrows of pestilence in retaliation for crimes against themselves听- usually for not showing听them听proper听respect.听When Oedipus arrives in Thebes and the city鈥檚 stricken with the plague, it鈥檚 assumed by everyone that this is a divine听punishment,听听and听the cause - the carrier of the pollution - must be found. I鈥檓 not saying,听God forbid, we should revive mythological terror of divine听fury,听but that saints鈥� stories听often provide grounds for hope.听The question now is who or what can offer this in our听present,听intractable predicament.
    • The patron saint of plague victims is St听Roch, or Roc or Rocco - he鈥檚 always identifiable because he lifts his tunic to show the suppurating sore on his thigh and he has a dog with him. Legends differ, but it seems he was born in Montpellier in the听14th century, with a birthmark on his chest in the shape of a cross.听Travelling to Italy and finding the plague raging, he听nursed the sick and听cured many sufferers. When听he caught it himself,听he听hid himself away in the woods.听There听the听dog found him and听licked his听buboes and听alerted his owner to听Roch鈥檚听hiding place.
    • His devotees multiplied ever since his reputed life听span and听grew even in the听19th century. Many churches all over the world are specially dedicated to him 鈥� in Glasgow he turns into St听Rollox听(I am tempted to cry,听Rolloxs听to听Covid). In Venice, a city stricken again and again by plagues,听the paintings听听created for the听Scuola听di San Rocco are some of the most magnificent of the Italian high baroque.听Probably the most听glorious monument听ever built听to give thanks for the end of a plague is the church of听S. Maria听della听Salute听in Venice 鈥撎齱hich听dominates the vista across the Grand Canal from听San Marco and听is听also filled with听sumptuous听works by听听and Tintoretto.听When the composer Gustav von Aschenbach听wanders semi-crazed through the pestilential alleys of the city in Visconti鈥檚 film,听,听his path takes him past听these memorials听raised to heavenly powers to stop such horrors returning. All these expressions of faith were, at one time, new contemporary听works of art, fearlessly ambitious for beauty as a weapon against loss, despair and emptiness after plague.听
    • Experts: The听Fourteen听Holy听Helpers were like medics today听鈥撎齮hey听each听had their special expertise. Sore throats,听eyes,听epilepsy,听diseases of the tongue,听family discord.听They were scrapped in the Reformation and the Catholic听church rather sheepishly followed suit.听But my favourite healing saint听of all听is听Guinefort,听who wasn鈥檛 a hermit or even a person, but听a greyhound who was wrongly killed by his master听after he鈥檇 left him to babysit and come back听to find听the dog with bloody jaws. Too late, he discovered the baby safe and sound and a dead viper by the cot, bitten in two by the brave hound.听Thereafter, parents听brought sick babies to听Guinefort鈥檚听grave and there were听centuries of听miracles.听
    • But who or what can we turn to听now听and escape? In听听Albert Camus asked a good question: how to be a saint in a world without God?听I hear on the news that听听鈥� from a trace that鈥檚 the equivalent of a spoonful of sugar in an Olympic swimming pool.听They should have a shrine, like听Guinefort.听But whose story would work听now听to stave off despair during this prolonged seclusion? Anne Frank didn鈥檛 survive, but she is still an inspiration.听My proposal would be Emily Dickinson. She secluded herself and wrote, lines such as听鈥業 dwell in Possibility...鈥櫶�
    • A friend听鈥撎齋ophie听Herxheimer,听who is听an artist and a poet currently locked down on a residency in听in Berkeley California听鈥撎齭ent听me听the听activity-cum-recipe听book:听60 Lovers to Make & Do听(Henningham Family Press, London), which she published last year.听It鈥檚 a prophetic book about filling solitude, and her inventiveness and high spirits made me laugh and the air around grew less听stifling.听Escapism is听a strong remedy听and writers听and artists听open up听escape routes. That doesn鈥檛 mean being cosy and heart-warming and consolatory.听I鈥檝e been听plunged in watching听the听truly astonishing听sequence of films听听managed to create听during and immediately after听World War II听鈥撎齣n spite of听shortages of all kinds.听These听works听are filled with wild, bizarre听imagination,听but they also make you think, hard and critically,听about many things that听still听apply听all too vividly听to听our听Brexit-embroiled, virus-crushed听country. They听show us how听daring听imagination leads听us听somewhere else听鈥撎齛t least mentally.听If听here and now we听could听now听make works that听invent and听reflect听with the same breadth of feeling, that would be something to听face down anxiety and听defy the future gloom.听The wartime听creations听of artist-storymakers听like Powell and听Pressburger听present such overwhelming evidence of the role of听culture in survival, it鈥檚 infuriating that听literature and the听other听arts听are being听laid waste.听As I am writing this听text,听the . Ideas needed听鈥撎齥eep them flowing.听听
  • Joanne Leal (Week 1)

    • My week has had something of a focus on the German Democratic Republic. This is largely because I鈥檝e been preparing and recording a lecture on Gerhard Klein鈥檚 1957 film . Perhaps it鈥檚 inevitable in these strange times that we look in unlikely places for ways to understand our current experiences and I was tempted to reflect on our own lockdown in the light of the film鈥檚 depiction of a locked-down state, however different these may be. The GDR鈥檚 lockdown was in fact only partial in the mid-50s, as the border in Berlin was still open. This anomaly is harnessed in the film to make the case that the state must foster a commitment to itself that is elective, rather than coerced, and that this can be achieved only by creating communities of belonging that serve the needs of the many and not the few. While in the final instance this idea is reduced to a surprisingly conservative revitalization of the nuclear family and traditional gender roles, the film fascinates still, not least for its images of movement back and forth the across the East/West border on the part of young protagonists lured by the West鈥檚 consumer culture.
    • East Berlin also features as a setting in my latest reading, Deborah Levy鈥檚 . Her protagonist visits the depressing end-state of the 1980s which has more in common with the repressive, hyper-surveilled GDR of Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck鈥檚 (2006) than with the still hopeful 1950s take on the socialist state. Here too I found an odd (and somewhat trivial!) link to my contemporary lockdown experience in the form of missing baking ingredients. After five weeks without, I finally managed to source some flour and have celebrated by baking quiches, pies, cakes and biscuits. Baking, along with sewing and knitting have been my go-to activities for rest and relaxation for years 鈥� my mum, a Home Economics teacher passed on all her skills 鈥� but the sometimes slower pace of my lockdown life (no commuting!) means I have a bit more time for them. It鈥檚 easy to be inspired at the moment too by , of course, but I鈥檝e also been catching up (on my mum鈥檚 recommendation) with Secrets of the Museum, a behind-the-scenes look at the that affords an intimate glimpse of its incredible costume collection. Also recommended to me this week was , a podcast on the history, the pathologies and the politics of knitting which you can listen to while stitching.
    • A different, more meditative reflection on the meanings of the objects we craft also formed part of my latest audiobook listening, Kit de Waal鈥檚 (beautifully read by Fiona Shaw) whose central character dresses dolls as a response to trauma and loss. Although very differently realized, both this novel and The Man who Saw Everything share a focus on the losses we experience and the lives we can or can鈥檛 live in the shadows they cast. Their characters move in sometimes disorienting ways across time and space and they are in this sense anything but lockdown novels. Nevertheless, both ask us to reflect on what we do to make meaningful the time we have available to us and both have inspired me to do so at what sometimes seems like an out-of-time moment in my life.